New York’s Finger Lakes viticulture area has come a long way in recent years. Home to more than 100 wineries centered around Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga Lakes, the area has long been a source of excellent cool climate wines, and has recently been bringing home awards and earning some great press.
While commercial wine has been produced here since the mid-1800’s, a major change occurred in the 1960’s when Dr. Konstantin Frank successfully grew and produced wine from Vitis Vinifera grapes such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot noir, Gewürztraminer, and Cabernet Sauvignon that had been grafted onto cold-hardy native rootstock. For years, it was relatively uncommon to find Finger Lakes wines other than Rieslings earning 90+ scores from Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast or Wine Advocate. That has certainly changed! Recently, I went to the region and sampled wines from 3 producers who have received some rave write-ups and scores.
My first stop was Ravines (https://RavinesWine.com) which featured 13 (thirteen!) wines which had received scores from 90 to 94 from Spectator, Advocate and Vinous Media. Ravines’ Rieslings, both dry and off-dry; Chardonnay; Pinot Noir and Cab Franc were all excellent old-world style offerings. Prices were also very good, mostly between $17 to $25. Their 2017 Cab Franc and 2016 Le Petit Caporal (Bordeaux blend) were exceptional.
Next on the tour was Shaw Vineyard (https://shawvineyard.com). I have blogged about Shaw’s Orange Wine before (https://fumblingviniferist.com/2017/06/19/orange-wine-a-rediscovered-style/) and on this visit tried several of their more traditional offerings. Steve Shaw ages his wine a good bit longer than most local vignerons, and one of my highlights of the day was a 2011 Merlot Steve had just released.
Finally, and my favorite, was Bellangelo winery (www.bellangelo.com). Winemaker Chris Missick is exceptionally knowledgeable in all facets of viticulture and enology. A military veteran and former attorney from Southern California, Chris is publishing a series of books taking the reader deep into Finger Lakes Wines. The first book in the series, “FLX Wine School, a Crash Course by Bellangelo Book 1”, covers the history of Finger Lakes wines, wine chemistry and basics of wine tasting. The book is approachable and comprehensively sourced and footnoted.
Bellangelo’s wines were all impressive. Chris has received a lot of press for Bellangelo’s sparkling wines, including a just-released sparkling Gewurztraminer. I am not a big fan of that varietal, but this 2017 sparkler is delicious! In addition, Bellangelo’s single vineyard Rieslings were some of the best I have tasted. A standout among the reds is the 2017 Cabernet Franc-Lemberger blend which was bright, complex and well-balanced.
Over the past few years I have made it a habit to visit the Finger Lakes every year. Given the trajectory in quality I have seen, I can’t wait for my next visit.
fumblingviniferist 
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