Most wine lovers understand that white wines and red wines are fermented differently. For whites, the grapes are crushed and the clear juice is immediately drained into fermentation tanks. After red grapes are crushed, the entire mixture of juice, skins and seeds are fermented together. This is one reason reds have heavier tannins than whites and why whites are lighter and fruitier.
But thousands of years ago, many white wines were fermented just as reds are today. Long ago this practice fell out of favor, but recently has been making a comeback – particularly in the Finger Lakes wine AVA (American Viticulture Area) of upstate New York. When white grapes are crushed and allowed to ferment on the skins, the result is a deeper, richer wine that, yes, approaches orange in color. Greater complexity and a fuller mouthfeel are also common. Today, orange wines made from common white varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling can be found, not only from New York but also Italy, France and Australia, among other regions.
For several years I have seen articles about orange wines and have been intrigued, but never happened across one in a wine store or restaurant. Last week I was happily surprised to find a 2014 Shaw Vin Rustique orange wine on the list of a restaurant in Utica. It was a BIG, flavorful wine and absolutely delicious. Unfiltered and textural, with a slight nuttiness and full fruit flavors of dried apricot and pear which were balanced by a citrus acidity. (90+, $30).
As more is written about orange-style wines, I believe they will be increasingly seen in neighborhood wine stores and restaurants. In the meantime, many good ones can be ordered online. If you are bored with your standard Pinot Grigio’s or Rosés this summer and are intrigued by exploring unfamiliar wines – by all means, give orange wine a try!
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